The Walters Art Museum, a rather conventional midsize institution, has dug deep into its collection to present its new, surprisingly impressive exhibit Bedazzled: 5,000 Years of Jewelry. The exhibit is an ambitious one, as indicated by its title, covering works from around the globe from over five millennia.
Curator Sabine Albersmeier keeps an open definition of jewelry, situating the pieces in their historical context. "Jewelry" is a useful term to describe the tradition of bodily adornment that is at once both universal and culturally specific. The exhibit does not attempt to establish a cohesive narrative to unite the pieces; doing so would be ahistorical and ultimately do a disservice to their uniqueness and beauty.
The exhibit begins in the ancient world of the Mediterranean. Jewelry was not just a signifier of social status (a characteristic of jewelry that remains today), but also was imbued with magical and protective qualities.
A Tilapia fish amulet from 14th century B.C.-Egypt revealed the multiple layered meanings of jewelry. The species Tilapia nilotica was common in the Nile and was regarded for its taste. Yet, it also symbolized rebirth and resurrection because the fish carries its eggs in its mouth and was consequently thought to be self-generating. The amulet measures approximately one inch and is a deeply rich orange color, formed out of a combination of carnelian and gold.
Several Roman works are also on display, including a pair of Roman snake bracelets and a ring from the first century A.D. Snake bracelets constructed out of solid gold were among the most popular types of jewelry in the Roman world, as snakes symbolized fertility and were believed to ward off evil. The Roman works are, overall, not particularly compelling, considering the stunning quality of earlier pieces from the Greeks, Etruscans and Egyptians.
The exhibit also features several important examples of medieval jewelry. One is a pair of Eagle Fibulae made in sixth century Spain. Fibulae are pins that were used in the ancient and medieval worlds to fasten garments. The pair is constructed out of gold over bronze, gemstones, glass and meerschaum. They are considered to be one of the best-preserved examples of this high-status fashion accessory.
Another highlight of the exhibit is its trio of Jewish marriage rings from Middle and Eastern Europe from the 17th and 18th centuries. The rings are elaborately constructed out of gold to form floral patterns. Two of them also contain a small gabled building on top, representing figuratively Solomon's Temple or a synagogue, or metaphorically the couple's marriage, as newlyweds are compared to a building in the Torah.
Fast-forward to the 20th century, and we get an exquisite Tiffany's iris corsage ornament made of gold, silver, platinum, sapphires, diamonds, topaz and demantoid gernets. Produced in 1900, the piece was showcased and won the grand prize of the jury at the 1900 Paris Exposition Universelle. At nine and a half inches, it is formed with a gold stem, three small leaves set with green demantoid garnets and six large petals set with 139 sapphires, diamonds in platinum ribs and citrines of the three drooping pedals.
The pieces chosen reveal the wide varieties and changing meanings of jewelry through 5,000 years of creativity. Unfortunately, the exhibit does not feature contemporary works. With this obvious gap in the story of jewelry, the exhibit does not live up to its full potential, leaving it extensive rather than comprehensive. After a journey of 5,000 years, would 50 more be too much?
Bedazzled: 5,000 Years of Jewelry will be on display at the Walters Art Museum through Jan. 4, 2009.
