Ice cream shops are often treated as indulgences. At The Charmery, they are something closer to a neighborhood anchor. Founded over a decade ago, the Baltimore-based shop has become known for its weekly rotating flavors, deep commitment to local collaboration and belief that ice cream can be a vehicle for art, memory and community. Co-founder David Alima traces The Charmery’s roots to a shared dream with his wife Laura: to open a business grounded in craft, curiosity and place. In an interview with The News-Letter, Alima reflects on how The Charmery began, how its flavors come to life and why staying true to Baltimore has always mattered.
The News-Letter: Could you tell me how The Charmery first started and how it has evolved over time?
David Alima: We opened about 12 years ago. My wife went to Cornell for hotel and restaurant hospitality and always wanted to open her own business. I fell in love with making ice cream, and that combination brought us to opening an ice cream shop.
We traveled around the world tasting ice cream, and what we found was that ice cream shops are kind of the heartbeat of a neighborhood — of a community. I grew up here in Baltimore, so when we moved back home, it was important to us to bring that feeling here.
N-L: You mentioned traveling to find inspiration. Was there a specific place that stood out?
DA: There was a shop in Vietnam where you could drive your motorbike right into it. The whole garage smelled like gasoline, and they served this sticky rice ice cream that I still think about.
I make a mango sticky rice flavor once a year, trying to get closer to what I remember, but I don’t think I’ve ever reached the height of what it is in my mind.
N-L: How do flavors at The Charmery go from idea to creation?
DA: We make what’s considered super-premium ice cream, which is based on butterfat content. We use 16 percent butterfat dairy from South Mountain Creamery here in Maryland, and we don’t put much air into it. That makes it dense and rich.
If there’s fruit in a flavor, it’s real fruit. If an ingredient is listed, it’s actually in there. We don’t use artificial colorings or flavorings. A lot of our flavors come from research and inspiration from around the world.
N-L: How do you choose new flavors?
DA: What makes The Charmery unique is that we do a new flavor every week. We’re constantly creating. That’s the whole point.
We’re inspired by pastry chefs and chefs here in Baltimore, and I always order dessert when I go out. We also look through cookbooks from around the world. Flavors translate. Most flavors can become ice cream.
N-L: The Charmery collaborates often with artists and other creatives. How did that become part of your mission?
DA: I live here, so this place is very special to me. A lot of our collaborations are with people who are pursuing their creative paths — musicians, artists, photographers, poets.
I worked for a reggae record label before this, and it was such an honor to support people making music. What we get to do now with ice cream is help promote the arts. The more art there is in the world, the better off we are.
N-L: How do you decide who to collaborate with?
DA: A lot of it comes from personal relationships. People I admire, I’ll reach out to. Sometimes people reach out to us.
I’ll also look at artists coming into town and see if there’s a way we can help promote their work while they’re here.
N-L: The Charmery seems to do so much — weekly flavors, catering, pies, events. How do you manage it all?
DA: We have an amazing team. We work really hard, but it’s the people around us that influence the flavors and help everything come together.
We get to create beautiful ice cream together, and that’s a really special thing.
N-L: What has been the most difficult challenge your business has faced?
DA: COVID, without a doubt. It felt like we had to reinvent the business every three days.
We moved from scoops to pints and pies, opened delivery and my wife, our employees, my brother-in-law — we were all driving around delivering ice cream. After putting the kids to bed, Laura and I would sit in our living room for hours labeling pints.
A lot of businesses had to do similar things. Places like La Cuchara and Clavel adapted in amazing ways. Supporting each other got us through that time.
N-L: How have Hopkins students shaped The Charmery’s relationship with the city?
DA: We love Hopkins students. More than students from any other college I know, they really explore the city around them.
We see the shuttle drop people off all the time. Students support us in the winter, when summer is usually our busiest season, and that’s always meant a lot to us.
N-L: Ice cream in winter can be tough. How do you get through the colder months?
DA: You have to make your money in the summer. In winter, we do hot chocolate and marshmallows that we make in-house.
And we rely on the people who love ice cream in the cold. Those are my people.
N-L: Baltimore has several great ice cream shops. How do you think about competition?
DA: I don’t think it’s about standing out. It’s about staying true to who you are.
We’re lucky to have a great ice cream community here. Everyone has their own personality and what makes them special, and that’s a beautiful thing.
N-L: Why seven always-available flavors?
DA: Except for Old Bay Caramel, which just feels very Maryland, they’re all takes on classic flavors. We always want a great vanilla, a great chocolate, a great chocolate chip.
Our weekly flavors can be wild and creative, but the core flavors are about comfort. Maryland Mud is probably our top seller. I never want to see that one go.
N-L: What’s it like creating so many flavors each year?
DA: We’re lucky to have an incredible production team. Joe, our head ice cream maker, pushes us to do more and do better.
Because we create so much — 52 weekly flavors a year plus seasonal ones — some are instant hits, and some need more time. Everything goes through multiple rounds of testing. That volume helps us find the flavors that really shine.
N-L: Looking ahead, what are you most excited about?
DA: We’re doing full sensory movie nights at our Union Collective location, where treats match what’s happening on screen.
Our Case Ball Drop on New Year’s Eve is always really special too. We do it early so people can celebrate with ice cream and still enjoy the rest of their night.
N-L: Finally, what do you hope people take away from visiting The Charmery?
DA: That it’s special, and that you don’t have to be perfect to start something.
I was 25 when we opened. You don’t need to be rich or old to take risks. If the food is good and the mission is good, people will support you.
