The month of April is an exhilarating one in the world of competitive rock climbing, as it marks the return of the much anticipated global competition series and a change in structure at the next Summer Olympics.
The 2020 Olympic Games in Tokyo marked the first time that much of the world encountered this rapidly-growing sport. Before climbing was introduced to the Olympics, another competition series showcased the world’s best: the International Federation of Sport Climbing’s (IFSC) World Cups. Formed in 2007, the IFSC is the governing body that strives to “make the world a better place through sport climbing.” The IFSC regulates both world and continental cups and organizes Olympic qualifiers.
Last weekend in Keqiao, China kicked off the start of the new season where the fiercest athletes fight for a podium in three disciplines: speed, bouldering and lead. Each discipline requires a unique combination of coordination, strength and technique — an athlete may excel in one, but not another. Boulderers and lead climbers may never learn the intricacies of speed climbing and vice versa. The series spans 11 countries for a total of 18 competitions: six boulder, six lead and six speed. The Keqiao World Cup showcases the world’s best boulderers, and the week after is the first lead competition. Team USA sent both men and women and put on a strong showing. 58 women entered qualifying, and a 17 year-old Texas native won the gold.
As climbing rises in popularity, the Los Angeles 2028 Games announced two new medal opportunities in the sport. Previously, lead climbing and bouldering were combined. They are now going to be recognized as independent disciplines. As the sport reaches new heights, more athletes will be recognized for their excellence. Equally exciting, in June 2024 the International Paralympic Committee approved para climbing to officially join the 22 other Paralympic summer sports. The impact of the sport is soaring.
While bouldering and lead are considered the classical disciplines, speed climbing is often the event people picture when they learn that climbing is a competitive sport. Like running, the goal is to get to the finish in the fastest possible time. Both hands and feet need to land in the exact right spot on the holds as every millisecond counts in the five-second race. Every speed route is set up the same way on a vertical 15m (49 feet) high wall. Athletes race in pairs in a tournament-style bracket until the gold medal match determines the victor. They are also fighting for personal bests and to beat the world record.
Contrary to the standardized speed routes, both rope climbing and bouldering have unique routes during each stage of the competition.
The name for lead climbing was coined because in traditional outdoor settings, as one climber ascends they “lead” the other climber up the wall. The climber must clip the rope into a series of quickdraws fastened to the wall. However, in the indoor setting there is only one climber, and the belayer stays stationary on the ground. Athletes test their endurance and fight the “pump" (forearm and finger exhaustion) to get as high on the route as possible over the course of six minutes.
Bouldering is the discipline of power and dynamics. Here, all ropes are foregone and protection is switched to safety mats. Athletes must solve four to five boulder “problems”, each marked with a marked zone and top. The competitor with most tops — or zones if the climb wasn’t finished — emerges victorious.
As the sport of climbing grows worldwide, competitive series’ continue to grow and evolve, captivating and exciting a diverse audience.
