Phillips seafood, a catch

Phillips seafood

301 Light Street

Phone: 410-685-6600

Price: $10-$20

Location: Harborplace Light Street Pavilion

Hours: Mon.-Sun.: 11:00 a.m.-9:00 p.m.

If Baltimore is famous for one thing besides syphilis, it's crabs. That's why, before you graduate from Hopkins, you absolutely MUST go to Phillips Harborplace Restaurant to try one of their premium crab cakes. It's a Baltimore delicacy that is simply not to be missed.

Phillips is a big name throughout Maryland, known for its fresh quality seafood. Located in the Harborplace at the touristy Inner Harbor, it's become a key destination for travelers far and wide. I have a friend from Pittsburgh who faithfully makes an annual pilgrimage to Baltimore just to eat at this place. It's that good.

Phillips is on Light Street, in the shopping complex that also includes Hooters. (Guys, please pass up the temptation just once and give Phillips a try...) That means it's right by the harbor, with a lovely view. It claims to seat about 800 people, though that number seems a little high. There is an outdoor patio that is especially lovely on a warm, breezy day.

Open from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. on Mondays through Saturdays, and 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. on Sundays, Phillips does a bustling lunch and dinner business. In fact, on weekends during prime dining hours, it is not uncommon to see a line extending half the length of the mall, with a two-hour wait for a table. The restaurant does not accept reservations. Since we have the luxury of living nearby, I would recommend trying them on a week day or at an odd hour to avoid this annoying wait.

If however, you do get stuck in one of those two-hour lines, rest assured that your dining experience will be well worth the wait. You can start out with mini crab cakes, jumbo shrimp cocktail, steamed clams or beer-battered lobster. If you like soup, try their vegetable crab soup or New England clam chowder. Their Caesar salad is phenomenal, especially when topped with the blackened tuna skewers.

All of these, of course, are just for starters. When you open the regular menu, you can feast your eyes on a dizzying array of fish, clams, shrimp, lobster and many varieties of crab. Dishes like "cashew crusted mahi mahi," "herb grilled snapper filet," "Phillips crab imperial" and "twin lobster tails" will have you drooling all over the menu.

That is, of course, provided you like seafood. If you don't like seafood, don't bother with Phillips. It does offer a few meals for those "land lubbers" among you -- chicken fingers, chicken breast, even filet mignon -- but ordering anything besides seafood at a place like Phillips is pretty much stupid. Sure, it'll taste good, but if you're really in the mood for a burger, just go to a burger joint! I made the mistake of dragging two anti-seafood friends there once, and it was just depressing watching them eat their chicken sandwiches.

If you're in the mood for seafood, however, Phillips is the place for you. I've eaten a lot of crab cakes in my life, but Phillips' premium crab cakes are unquestionably the best. In fact, I've never actually ordered any of the other great seafood that Phillips has to offer because I can't turn down the crab cakes. They are jumbo lump crab meat with minimal filling and the perfect blend of seasonings. These five ounce slices of heaven are have a rich and creamy flavor and are served either broiled or fried.

Needless to say, on my last visit, I ordered the crab cakes. I did sample my dining companion's meals, as well, though, and it was all stellar. One person started with the vegetable crab soup, a "tomato based family recipe that has been served at Phillips since 1956." Yum. His main course was the Seaside Platter, which is a great way to sample a lot of different Phillips specialties. It features one crab cake, two jumbo shrimp and fried scallops with a starch and vegetable of your choice.

My other friend, who doesn't like shellfish, ordered the herb grilled snapper filet, which was awesome! It's a light fish with lots of flavor, and Phillips prepares it to perfection. It came with rice and vegetables.

Phillips has added a couple neat features to its menu. One is the kid's menu, which has the usual fare (hot dogs, pizza, etc.) to satisfy picky eaters, as well as kid-sized portions of certain seafoods for the more adventurous. Another is the lunch menu. Now, before 4 p.m., you can order lunch-sized portions of some of your favorite Phillips entrees at a reduced price. This is a real plus, as Phillips tends to be a little expensive for the college crowd. My crab cakes were about $13, and many dishes go up from there. The less expensive alternative makes Phillips even more appealing.

This upscale, classy and delicious restaurant is the perfect place to bring a date. It's prime location on the Inner Harbor makes it a convenient stop before or after a visit to the Aquarium, Science Center or shopping area. Phillips is good enough, though, to be a destination in its own right.