The Heavenly Helmand

The Helmand

806 N. Charles St.

Phone: 410-752-0311

Price: $13

Location: Mount Vernon

Hours: Mon.-Sun.: 5 p.m.-10 p.m.

With all the recent media focus on Afghan culture, have you ever wondered what their cuisine is like? Ponder no more. Just a short trip away down Charles Street lies The Helmand, one of Baltimore's finest restaurants. Located in the heart of Mt. Vernon, The Helmand mixes classic taste and atmosphere.

Owned by Afghani president Hamid Karzai's brother, The Helmand has become a Baltimore institution. A popular choice, even on weeknights one can expect long waits up to 30 or 40 minutes before being seated. This should provide you with plenty of time to peruse the decor, which blends classic Afghani designs and rugs with a gentle mood lighting reminiscent of dining of New York's Upper East Side. There is also plenty of space once seated, as The Helmand's two rooms provide an excellent mix of cozy interior without sacrificing a spacious dining atmosphere.

This upscale dining experience, however, comes at a price. While the food is generally tasty, the portions are usually quite small -- and expensive. You can expect to pay nearly $13 per plate for a single main course and still walk away hungry. It is hard, then, to figure out what you are paying for, especially as the waiting staff is generally slow and inattentive. One might be advised to fill up on bread during the wait before the main course, but the tardiness of the waiting staff makes this nearly impossible. Thus, I recommend going with a friend. There will be plenty of time spent waiting, and, with portions sized the way they are, splitting a few items between two people is not a bad idea. Usually three main dishes, which can get expensive, will suffice for two people without any appetizers. But, any of the main dishes can be ordered as side items or for the first course, which is an excellent way to get a taste of a number of different dishes. This is perhaps the best part of The Helmand's style: it forces a diner to get a thorough tasting of many of their dishes.

Among the better tastes are the lamb kebabs and grilled steak chunks. These tasty morsels are prepared well and with plenty of flavor. While Afghani kebabs have a tendency to be on the drier side, The Helmand does well to ensure a juicy taste. Beware of the ground beef and onion filled dumplings, however, as they tend to have undercooked shells, even as the filling may be tasty. Generally, to get the most of The Helmand experience, it is recommended for non-vegetarians. Most of their dishes, though, do have a non-meat alternative. These are usually spinach-based, but the pumpkin is particularly good. The Helmand stays true to Afghani tastes and makes these plates well; they are recommended for side items.

Although The Helmand plays host to large crowds, there is ample room to enjoy the atmosphere. Despite its slow waiting staff, the food is quite tasty and rich. Yet, the combination of price, size of portions and wait do not make this an ideal choice for a quick meal. Rather, a trip with one's parents or on an anniversary is advised.