Published by the Students of Johns Hopkins since 1896
May 3, 2025
May 3, 2025 | Published by the Students of Johns Hopkins since 1896

Get conquered by the Mughals' Garden

By Charbel Barakat | October 11, 2001

Perhaps you've never tried Indian food before. Perhaps you've been a bit intimidated by rumors of vindaloos gone horribly wrong. If so, let me reassure you that there is hope; I am among the many that have overcome their blissful ignorance of the fine flavors and colorful appearance of Indian cuisine. My introduction came some years ago at Mughal Garden, a fine restaurant in the heart of Mount Vernon and a mere minute's walk north from the Peabody Conservatory.

For the novice, its tasty dishes provide a fine introduction and hearty portions (not to mention its lunch buffet) provide ample opportunity to sample their entire range of offerings. Long-time fans of Indian delicacies will find Mughal's attentive staff helpful in preparing each dish just as you like it.

If you like Indian food and lots of it, or if you'd like to sample several dishes without spending a lot of money, visit the Mughal Garden for its bargain all-you-can-eat lunch buffet. For $6.95, you can heap your plate again and again with a variety of mild to spicy Indian foods and a good selection of vegetarian dishes. On weekends, the brunch buffet offers even more items, along with complimentary soda and house wine. And don't worry, just because it's a buffet doesn't mean the restaurant hides its best offerings. No less than 12 entrees were available when I visited as well as multiple curries and sauces to liven up any dish.

Some recommendations are in order. Despite the fact that I'll probably always go back to cheeseburgers and french fries, a few dishes certainly impressed me. For appetizers, try the vegetable samosa or chicken chaat with potatoes, onions and tamarind. Try the spicy Mulligatawny soup, the steaming platters of tandoori, chicken, shrimp or salmon tikka, kebobs, vindaloos and saags. They tell me that no Indian dinner should start without bread, and Mughal Garden has a delicious selection, including the standard nan, onion kulcha and tandoor rotii. Tempting as it may seem, try not to fill up on them, as there will be plenty to eat in the substantial main course.

Mughal Garden offers numerous seafood selections, and the lobster tandoori is a standout. The menu here is enormous and reasonable, with the real bargains being the vegetarian meals. All entrees are accompanied by some of the best Basmati rice in town. For dessert, try the kheer, an Indian rice pudding with almonds and raisins that proves easily superior to the brownie bottom pies and frozen cappuccinos that are infecting dessert menus everywhere.

The lamb vindaloo provided a delicious surprise. You must understand I'm not ordinarily a lamb man, myself. Consider it the Lisa Simpson effect: I can eat just about anything so long as it's not cute. And let's face it, those little lambs are awfully cute. But, let me tell you, this dish was more than enough to change my mind. The lamb was alive with flavor, setting my mouth nearly aflame. Tasty to be sure, although I ran through quite a few glasses of water before figuring that out.

A word to the wise: no matter how tough you think you are, when you tell an Mughal waiter that you'd like your lamb "as hot as possible," you'd better be ready to go to war. Their chefs won't hold back the curries and chilis, so choose your words carefully.

Disappointments are minor, yet significant. I found the service somewhat lacking, waiting over 20 minutes for a relatively simple order of chicken vindaloo. There was a large wedding party being served in the back room at the time, so a slight delay might've been understandable. Still, it seemed a bit much. All in all, though, not a bad experience.

For the best in pricing and atmosphere, Mughal Garden comes out on top once again. Although the dining room is fairly sizable, the setting can still be quite romantic at night, with candle light and lovely Indian sculptures and paintings everywhere you look. There's never much of a wait here, reservations are rarely necessary, and management often makes the rounds to inquire about the quality of the meal. Give Mughal a shot, but don't forget the Rolaids.


Have a tip or story idea?
Let us know!

News-Letter Magazine