Around here, Ruby Tuesday hardly a gem

Since I moved into the Homewood, I've probably hit Ruby Tuesday up for late night eats at least once a week. That's partly due to a few gift certificates from Mumsy and Daddy so I won't "starve to death." On the other hand, it's also because Tuesday's offers reasonably priced, tasty dishes and a location that can't be beat. Unfortunately, their miniscule selection might bore you after long, keeping anyone from returning too often.

Their marquee item is the all-you-can-eat salad bar for (only!) $1.99. Now I ain't what you'd call a salad man myself, but for two beans, I'll eat just about anything (Reason #6 I'd kick ass on Fear Factor).

I recommend any dish involving their ribs. They've got a fine Cajun kick to them, a flavor rather more subtle than most of their dishes. The broccoli and cheese soup is an unexpected delight, with a delicately spicy taste one would only expect from a much finer establishment. The potato skins, while not as delectable as those at the other named-after-a-weekday restaurant chain, are solid if not spectacular eats.

The side orders leave much to be desired. For traditionalists, standard Americana sides like french fries and "huge" baked potatoes are sure to satisfy. But Tuesday's lacks any real flash in their side offerings. The onion straws, probably the most original side item, are exceptionally bland and barely come in enough of a quantity to really taste them anyway.

There's a real paucity of desserts as well. Besides your basic sundaes, Tuesday's only desserts of note are their "tallcakes," half-foot tall blocks of cake covered in vanilla ice cream and either strawberry or fudge toppings.

As noted, a major limitation is the tiny menu. Well, okay, the menu itself, reminiscent of a McDonald's cash register with its oversized renderings of the menu items, is actually rather large. It's the selection that isn't. There aren't more than a half-dozen sandwiches and about 10 entrees to choose from. A man can only have the "caliente" chicken strips so many times before things get boring. The salad bar is great for variety, but it can only take you so far. It's salad, for Pete's sake.

Another sore spot - this is starting to get ridiculous - is Ruby Tuesday's strangely limited hours. Most weeknights, the joint shuts down at 11 p.m., just when I'm finishing up my day's assignments and am in a serious mood for a drink. On weekends, they're open only marginally longer until midnight. I'm not sure what they're thinking on this one here, folks. There's certainly plenty of money to be made in after-midnight food and drink sales. They could probably double prices, get surly waiters and still make oodles of money. Paper Moon certainly does. Their easily accessible location makes their limited hours all the more ridiculous and questionable.

Indeed, location is probably Ruby Tuesday's biggest advantage. If you're a Homewood dweller, it's as easy as jumping aboard a descending elevator. For most undergrads, it's barely more than a short walk or a quick shuttle trip. Friday's might have this place beat, but Tuesday's doesn't require a car or bus ride to Towson either. For those of us without automobiles, that can be the deciding factor.

Prices are fair, though hardly cheap. Ten to twelve bucks will afford you a good-sized sandwich, soda and tip. Expect to chip in upwards of $15 if you go for the ribs and a dessert as well. The budget-conscious -aren't we all? -are well served to check out the soup and salad or baked potato and salad combinations for filling meals for few bucks.

Obviously, it's difficult to give this joint an unqualified recommendation. As good as some of the food is, there are just too many annoying flaws to deal with. On the other hand, you're bound to encounter times where you feel like being served your dinner but don't have time to travel very far. For those times, Ruby Tuesday is there.