Published by the Students of Johns Hopkins since 1896
April 29, 2024

Hampden's got mullets galore - This eccentric little community just a hop, skip and a jump away from Hopkins boasts a unique collection of eats, treats and freaks found no other place in the world.

By Caroline Saffer | September 5, 2001

Don't be deceived by anyone who calls Hampden the haven for the refuse of Caucasian society. These days, one is almost as likely to see stylishly spiked hair as a mullet; the little community bordering Hopkins to the west is fast becoming one of the trendiest places to live in Baltimore. Hampden has remained one of my favorite neighborhoods in Baltimore since my first visit to the Goodwill store the day before I began my freshman year. Hampden has an absurd charm that anyone with an artistic eye or a taste for nostalgia will love. True, most of the rowhouses are a bit worn, but they are arguably the most cheerfully (albeit kitsch - Astroturf porches, anyone?) decorated in town, particularly around Christmas. A number of small, lovingly built stone churches punctuate the community, balanced out by an equal number of shady pubs, most with an Irish epithet of sorts.

Not only is Hampden a pleasant area to stroll around when you're sick of Charles Village or the Hopkins campus, it is also home to a number of quaint shops, eateries and other miscellany. Businesses are set into row houses, blending in with the residences, and you certainly won't find much of anything commercial, save for the infamous multi-level Royal Farms on the corner of Roland Ave. and 36th St., called The Avenue.

Some of the more interesting stores include In Watermelon Sugar (3555 Chestnut Ave.), full of artsy home dcor; Mud and Metal (813 The Avenue) sells modern crafts - both usable and decorative - much of which are made by local artists. Oh! Said Rose (840 The Ave.,) a name taken from a Gertrude Stein quote, is a beautiful boutique of dresses, romantic jewelry and other female-oriented merchandise. Lovers of unusual literature should check out the selection of unusual 'zines, journals and books - the kind you probably won't find at Barnes & Noble - at Atomic Books on The Avenue. Hampden is also known for its wonderful antique and vintage shops. My recommendation for clothing would be Galvanize (927 The Ave.), while Gustafsons Antiques (1008 The Ave.) and Fat Elvis (833 The Ave.) have a wonderful array of odds and ends, mainly from the earlier half of the 20th century. Cheap Chic (828 The Ave.) has a great collection of sexy, old pin-ups - the owner's been collecting them since he was 15.

There are also a few really excellent, and cheap (!), cafs to eat at around the neighborhood. Holy Frijoles (908 The Ave.) is one of my favorite venues for Mexican food in Baltimore, and Suzie's Soba is a sleek little spot for Asian cuisine. Golden West Cafe (842 The Ave.) offers an eclectic mix of dishes. I particularly recommend brunch, and be sure to check out the bathroom while you're there - it's covered wall-to-wall with old album covers. And if you're looking for an alternative to the monstrous commercialism of Starbucks, Common Ground (819 The Ave.) and The Coffee Mill (3549 Chestnut Ave.) are my Hampden coffee shops of choice. Common Ground is more appropriate for sitting down and reading or conversing, while The Coffee Mill is better for take-out or purchasing coffee from their big barrels of beans. Furthermore, if you enjoy modern art, stop by Paper Rock Scissors (1111 The Ave.) or Photoworks (3531 Chestnut Ave.). Quality, creative works by local artists are generally on display.

I suppose the only detail left is how to get to Hampden. The easiest route would probably be to go down University Parkway, take a left on W. 40th St., and then another left onto Roland Ave. Several blocks down, you'll run into "The Avenue" of W. 36th St., the main, brick-lined street of the Hampden neighborhood. Falls Rd. and Chestnut Ave. both run parallel. More adventurous individuals can take the trail through the woods next to the Hopkins track; you'll end up on Beech Ave., a lovely, green area to walk around in itself. Go straight up and take a right on Chestnut Ave. Don't let Hampden rumors stop you from exploring the neighborhood - after a few staunchy weeks at Hopkins, you'll be ready for it.


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