Contrary to popular belief, Baltimore does indeed have a dining scene. This may seem like an obvious point; it is after all a city and naturally there are bound to be eating establishments that sprout up around town, but the truth of the matter is, not all metropolitan areas can proudly lay claim to a prominent culinary culture, let alone a promising one. Lucky for us, Charm City's food options have become increasingly diverse, creative and sophisticated over the years.
Fells Point, for instance, has exploded into a lively Latin American community filled with authentic Mexican tortillerias, Peruvian grocery stores and family-owned Costa Rican eateries. Not to mention that Mt. Vernon boasts a new Thai or Indian restaurant nearly every year (most recently two, Indique and My Thai, but who's counting?).
Furthermore, Towson has arguably transformed into the unofficial Japanese grub hub of the Baltimore area, featuring more acclaimed sushi bars than Federal Hill and the Inner Harbor combined. Even Little Italy, Baltimore's oldest and most well-known dining enclave, is evolving into an increasingly reputable dining landscape.
Despite the restaurant revolution that is taking place across Baltimore, its culinary expansion has somehow managed to overlook the area's restricted selection of bistros, cafés and brasseries, neglecting to extend these improvements to the niche of French cuisine.
Yes, Martick's, Petit Louis and Brasserie Tatin are perfectly good choices when longing for a savory bowl of moules frites or craving a lean cut of steak au poivre, but what if contemporary French fare is more your taste? Or you wish to celebrate a special occasion in an impressively upscale dining room? Unfortunately, an unavoidable issue arises; these three spots are the only local options that offer an entirely French menu, not just French-inspired dishes.
In reality, a diner has a better chance of stumbling upon a Mediterranean tapas lounge than a French restaurant within the city's limits. So where does one turn to find a meal that is genuinely fran??ais? Just take a quick trip down south to our nation's capital to get a taste of a truly high-class dining experience.
Le Paradou, located in Washington D.C.'s vibrant Penn Quarter, promises to dazzle guests with a modern elegance that defines every moment spent under the care of Chef Yannick Cam. Cam, a native of Concarneau, France, has helped reinterpret classical French cooking in America since his arrival nearly 30 years ago, and continually receives international praise for his updated twists on traditional French cuisine.
Soft lighting of grand crystal chandeliers enhances the chic ambiance created by the beige and taupe mid-century décor, making guests feel like they're worth a million dollars, entering into the exclusive world of Washington's power players.
Wow-me dishes such as "Soupe de Morilles Brunes, Coquilles Saint Jacques R??ties" (morel mushroom soup with scallops, $16) and "Raviolis de Crabe, Pince de Homard au Beurre Fin de Tomates" (crab ravioli with lobster claw in a tomato butter sauce, $19) are well worth the price - although they are just petite hors d'oeuvres.
Entrees, on the other hand, are remarkably overpriced, especially taking into consideration that the portion sizes are so small that without an appetizer, one principal dish might be inadequate to satiate an empty stomach. Equally disappointing were the mediocre flavors of each individual component of the main course. The "Caille Farcie aux C??pes et Pistaches Gnocchi aux Chataines, Gratin de Navets" (stuffed quail with pistachios and porcini mushrooms, gnocchi garnished with chestnuts and turnips, $32) more closely resembled a basic meatloaf creation, accompanied by a plain side of pasta, more than the creative poultry preparation that was deliciously described on the menu.
An ambitious yet approachable menu of rich temptations paired with an outstanding wine list that earned Wine Spectator's 2005 Best-of Award of Excellence should be a formula for dining excellence, but pretentious service in addition to inconsistent fare lead to a surprising conclusion: Your palate may have been happier staying closer to home where options are limited but prices are reasonable and the food is reliable.
Baltimore may not be home to the most-impressive selection of European-influenced cuisine, but the French food that we do have an opportunity to enjoy is affordable, down-to-earth and satisfying. Although we are surrounded by some of the country's finest French dining institutions, Charm City is quickly catching up to its more refined neighbors. Maybe it is time to say, au revoir D.C., bonjour Baltimore!
