Baltimore may not seem like a desirable dining destination, but listen to your taste buds and one might argue that it is time to change B'more's questionable motto, Charm City, to the more suitable nickname of Culinary City. It is not to say that Baltimore has achieved the ranks of its prestigious haute-cuisine rivals, such as New York, San Francisco and Chicago, but it is clear that the city's underrated restaurant scene promises to surprise foodies with creative menus, distinct decor and gracious service.
Despite the high standards of the national dining big shots, Baltimore is one step closer to reaching the status level of competitors with the organization of Winter Restaurant Week. During the week of Feb. 5-9, more than 20 restaurants throughout Baltimore offered three-course dinners at the very moderate cost of $30.07.
Participating establishments ranged from the trendy restaurant Taste in Belvedere Square to seafood staples, such as Rusty Scupper and M&S Grill in the Inner Harbor. The opportunity to enjoy gourmet cuisine for a fraction of the price raised a difficult question: with only two nights available, what were the best bets?
After extensive research, I took my chance on an old Baltimore institution, Tio Pepe, and a highly acclaimed, less-seasoned restaurant called Corks. In the end, the enduring classic triumphed over the contemporary celebrity.
TIO PEPE
10 E. Franklin St., Mt. Vernon
(410) 539-4675
4 out of 5 Stars
Arguably one of Baltimore's first fine-dining establishments, Tio Pepe has remained on top of its game for over 30 years. The subterranean entrance leads to a welcoming bar with an impressive variety of Spanish wines and house sangria. Several dining rooms illuminated by soft lighting create an intimate and cozy atmosphere.
Vibrant pottery splashes color against the whitewashed brick walls, transporting the diner to the Catalan region of Spain. The comfortable but sophisticated ambiance is enhanced by elegant servers in tuxedos who treat each customer like a V.I.P.
The restaurant week fixed menu provided three options for appetizers, five entree selections and three choices for desserts. Even though there were only a handful of dishes to choose from, the mouth-watering descriptions made choosing among them surprisingly difficult.
Each course was interesting and perfectly satisfying. Generous portions and rich ingredients, such as the brochette of beef tenderloin with truffle sauce and wild rice or black bean soup flavored with Fino sherry, made it the perfect winter evening experience. Even without the terrific restaurant week deal, Tio Pepe is certainly worth its slightly above-average price tag.
Recommended: Paella; Shrimp in Garlic Sauce; House Specialty Walnut Roll
Cuisine and style: Spanish, Romantic Dining
Open: Mon. to Fri. 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., 5-10 p.m.; Sat. 5 a.m. to 11:30 p.m.; Sun. 5-10 p.m.
Prices: $18-25 entrees.
Transportation: $8 cab ride from Homewood.
CORKS
1026 S. Charles St., Federal Hill
(410) 752-3810
http://www.corksrestaurant.com
2 out of 5 Stars
With accolades from The Food Network, Zagat, The New York Times and Baltimore Magazine, expectations for Corks were naturally high. Even though this celebrated Federal Hill spot has been designated one of "Baltimore's Best Restaurants" every year since 1998, diners will be disappointed by the lackluster cuisine and apathetic service.
Charming ambiance and an impressive wine list save Corks from falling into the category of one of the most overrated dining experiences in Maryland. The casual exterior of a conventional Baltimore row house transforms into two main rooms that resemble a refined dining club. Candlelit tables, exposed brick and dark wood tables contribute to a romantic and relaxing atmosphere.
Unfortunately, dishes were bland and uninspiring, and to make matters even more unfavorable, the food was not warm and served at room temperature.
Pan-seared escolar with white truffle polenta, roasted cauliflower and fume sauce was a well-chosen combination executed poorly. Sections of the meal were completely tasteless, while periodic bites were overwhelmed by dollops of spicy horseradish.
The wait staff was unprofessional and impatient, bordering on inconsiderate. Every restaurant has nights that are slightly off, but the discrepancy between the cost and quality, even with the fabulous pricing of restaurant week, was too significant to be ignored.
The lesson: no matter how much incredible press an establishment may receive, publicity, whether positive or negative, can be very misleading.
Recommended: Mushroom Risotto; Arugula, Red Wine Poached Pear, Ch8fvre Salad
Cuisine and style: American, Romantic Dining.
Open: Tues. to Thurs. 5-10 p.m.; Fri. 5-11 p.m., Sun. 5-9:30 p.m.
Prices: $24-29 entrees.
Transportation: $15 cab ride from Homewood.
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