Published by the Students of Johns Hopkins since 1896
May 27, 2025
May 27, 2025 | Published by the Students of Johns Hopkins since 1896

Little Havana can't capture real Cuban sizzle

By Carleigh Connelly | April 13, 2006

Hidden in the far end of the Inner Harbor, Little Havana serves a big taste of Miami, appropriately spiced up with a little flavor of Havana.

If you are looking for an authentic Cuban meal, this might be your best bet in Baltimore, but it would certainly not satisfy the true Cuban-cuisine connoisseur.

The wild interior of this Locust Point hot spot was the first clue that the food is clearly secondary to the vibrant cantina scene.

A large Tiki bar draped with Cuban flags is the restaurant's centerpiece and attracts more customers than the surrounding tables and colorful wood booths that fringe the exposed brick walls of the open warehouse space.

A mishmash of Cuban memorabilia creates a visually overwhelming setting that reflects Little Havana's overall sense of having an energetic and funky ambiance.

Even though the restaurant feels more like a Cuban neighborhood bar in Miami than a small slice of the real Havana, it is the perfect place to escape the monotony of the usual places and to celebrate with friends at the end of a long week.

The restaurant is popular with the crowds of downtown workers who visit for after-work drink specials and happy hour, so you'll see a slightly older crowd there, at least when compared to college student spots.

If boisterous drinkers and a mingling downtown crowd are too fast-paced for what you're looking to have during your dining experience, ask to sit on the waterfront deck for a more relaxed and enjoyable dining experience.

Little Havana's "Nuevo Cubano" menu combines contemporary American dishes with traditional Cuban recipes and a dash of Caribbean flair, offering a nice alternative to Tex-Mex styles.

Appetizers ranging from classic Caesar salad to tortitas de frijoles negras sound exciting and irresistible on paper, but are both bland and disappointing in reality.

Resist the temptation to order the quesadillas. The crunchy flour tortilla stuffed with diced chicken and black bean salsa did not have nearly enough melted cheddar cheese to save it from its watery guacamole and far-from-fresh ingredients.

The nachos are an even worse decision. Instead of a stack of flakey tortillas with warm house-made cheddar sauce, a plate full of stale chips topped with runny cheddar cheese, lackluster black bean salsa and a dollop of tasteless guacamole make even the nachos served at Levering's own Salsa Rico seem gourmet in comparison.

Even so, an impressive variety of fresh and inventive salads managed to restore my faith in the menu's appetizer selection.

The ensalada de pollo a la parilla thoughtfully blends citrus marinated grilled chicken breast and a bed of mixed greens with honey mustard dressing, brie cheese and seasonal vegetables.

The surprising contrast between sour and sweet flavors perfectly complimented the salad's simple assortment of ingredients.

The main entr8ee menu is divided into two sections: platos principales, which include Cuban favorites and regional favorites, and bocadillos, which consists of Cuban-inspired sandwiches such as the croqueta de congrejo - a broiled Havana-style crab cake served on a Kaiser roll with lettuce, tomato, onion and a nicely salted side of sweet potato fries.

The more traditional Cuban plates are filling, savory and well-priced, whereas the American-inspired dishes, such as the hamburguesa Habana, are not outstanding, but do beat average bar food options.

Little Havana is famous for its weekly specials, such as their celebrated Sunday brunch of bottomless Bloody Marys and mimosas or "Aww Shucks!" Wednesdays with $1 oysters, $6 for a half-pound of shrimp and $2 Coronas offered all evening.

While many restaurants depend on themed nights that offer quality over quantity, Little Havana has made a reputation for its specials' quality and freshness.

Even though the wait staff seems a bit too laid back, and the food rises only slightly above typical pub fare, Little Havana still promises inexpensive dishes, tasty drinks and an upbeat atmosphere.

All in all, Little Havana is worth a venture away from the popular tourist restaurants of the Inner Harbor to this unfamiliar end of Baltimore's bay.


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