Cultural traditions need not be isolated to their point of origin. Take the Christmas tree, for example; the custom of using such a tree began in Germany and spread to the English-speaking world thanks to some convenient royal marriages to Great Britain. It goes without saying that food has an appreciably similar tendency to pack its bags and leave home, just as the people who love that food do.
Baltimore, like many other great American cities, certainly musters its culinary flair from the idiosyncratic specialties brought by its diverse population. Besides obvious examples like Little Italy, there are thriving Korean districts, Greek districts, Jewish districts and more -- all with exciting places to eat.
Though I could discuss these ethnic neighborhoods and their interesting, independent eateries, I'd like to focus on a particular type of restaurant. Though a formal categorical name escapes me, I shall designate this type of restaurant the Geographically Displaced American Restaurant.
What is this, you ask? The GDAR is a restaurant that serves one American region's food to another region of America. This is not an exclusive type of restaurant, and thus examples of such abound.
Why, then, if they are so common, should they deserve special consideration? Because good examples engage the patron beyond only the taste of food, which is the very goal of the Postmodern Gourmet. Such restaurants provide a fantasy, a brief escape from the realities of the places we call home. We can be in some sense transported from Baltimore to the Deep South, the deserts of the Southwest or any number of places that produce interesting food. Our minds may flicker with nostalgia -- real memories or scenes from movies we once saw. Think of these places like you would a cover song -- removed from its original context, but sometimes more exciting.
Most restaurants of this type, provided they are independently operated, will still reflect some of the character of its physical location. Foreign food restaurants do this as well, but the fact that the GDAR is American-inspired allows the contrasts to blend more subtly, sometimes imperceptibly, whereas a Chinese restaurant's attempt at American normalcy might seem jarring or even humorous.
This synthesis found in certain GDARs could provide a new perspective for the analytic observer. Maybe that's a stretch, but it's free to try and no one will know how ridiculous you are until you start talking about it.
I can recommend two examples of such restaurants that deliver a classic style of food but maintain a Baltimorean character. I selected these restaurants for their unyielding adherence to quality, their independent legitimacy, and their value as examples of food culture being transplanted and really working. Best of all, these places are unassuming and cheap -- just like our fair city.
The first joint of these two most honorable mentions is Attman's Authentic N.Y. Delicatessen at 1019 E. Lombard St., downtown. Attman's is the crown jewel of the great Jewish food treasury that is affectionately called "Corned Beef Row."
"Corned Beef Row" is situated in a neighborhood that was once inhabited largely by Jewish folks. Most of these people moved away from the city into the County and the district is now what I will euphemistically call "low rent."
Sure, it ain't the prettiest place for a deli, but Attman's has been there for over 90 years, and it's so popular where it is that it shouldn't go anywhere. It is still owned and operated by the Attman family, who take pride in their restaurant's history and quality.
This place is a great deli, at which much of the food is made on premises or produced expressly for the establishment. The homemade corned beef and pastrami are unbelievable and probably the best I've ever had.
The atmosphere is what one would expect from a real NYC Jewish deli -- crowded, narrow, laden with countless delicacies and a little rough around the edges. The staff, most of whom are Baltimore natives, is efficient, friendly and capable of making some of the best sandwiches this side of the Mason-Dixon.
It isn't just a restaurant, but rather it's a cultural phenomenon -- something people are proud of. It's the perfect New York deli in Baltimore. And yes, they have crab cakes.
My most recent restaurant love is Andy Nelson's BBQ in Cockeysville. The founder, Mr. Nelson himself, played for the Baltimore Colts from '57 to '63 as a safety. Luckily for us, Nelson had more talents than just football. A southerner by origin, he had learned how to make delicious and tender barbecued meats in all sorts of styles. As a stalwart Northerner, I was only vaguely aware that so many defined styles existed in the world of BBQ. Andy Nelson's offers a little of each, while perfecting every dish.
The restaurant is counter serviced and the menu is fairly diverse, ranging from succulent pulled pork to incredible ribs. For about $8, the barbecue pilgrim can receive an amply sized sandwich, two sides and a drink. Ribs cost more, but they're good enough for the splurge.
Like Attman's, much of what they use is produced in house, even the Southern-style sweet tea and three well executed sauces, Alabama-style, Carolina-Style and the beguiling Pig Dip. The condiment counter features not only all of the aforementioned, but a healthy selection of quirkily named hot sauces.
Service is lightning fast and courteous and seating is cozy, unique and comfortable. These folks have clearly put a lot of thought into making the restaurant exactly as it should be.
Besides the old Colts paraphernalia, you can tell it's Baltimore by the presence of Pit Beef - a Baltimore classics alongside blue crabs and Berger cookies.
