Ruth's Chris, satisfying Baltimore's carnivores

Ruth's Chris Steakhouse

600 Water Street

Phone: 410-783-0033

Price: $30

Location: Inner Harbor

Hours: Mon.-Thur.: 4 p.m.-10 p.m.

Fri., Sat.: 4 p.m.-11 p.m.

Sun.: 4 p.m.-9 p.m.

Ruth's Chris steakhouse isn't for everybody. Steer clear if you don't love meat, or if you are unwilling to pay $30 a head for an entrZe. But if you don't fall in either category, there is scant a dining experience in Baltimore that compares with Ruth's Chris steakhouse.

The restaurant, which is one of the most popular high-end chain steakhouses in the country, has a rich history. Started in New Orleans in 1965, there are now over 80 locations, from the United States to Taiwan.

Not surprisingly, beef is the most popular of the menu choices. Steaks range from 12-22 ounce servings. Those not in the mood for steak can choose from a menu offering seafood and other meat selections. Vegetables are served a la carte to accompany entrZe selections.

Much of Ruth's Chris' success derives from its name and the image it conveys for itself. Although the chain serves 14,000 steaks on average each day, quality control is never cited as a problem. Scattered throughout major cities, the restaurant gives the special occasion diner and the business expense traveler a safe bet to celebrate a birthday or close a deal with a client. There's little variation from location to location, so everybody feels like a regular.

Ruth's Chris is also an experience, and one that cannot be underestimated. Steaks are brought to the table sizzling, served on simple, thick black plates. The sizzling sound provokes rubbernecking from even the seasoned Ruth's Chris veterans.

But of course, while people may come for the atmosphere and familiarity, food is the primary reason to shell out the admittedly high prices at Ruth's Chris.

Steak-lovers rave about the process in which their food is prepared. The beef is broiled in an 1800 degree oven. It is served to your table on a 500 degree plate with all intent to ensure that your steak doesn't get cold. It might seem a little outlandish, but people paying top dollar expect their food to be served warm.

The rest of the non-beef entrees are competent, but undistinguished. Among the favorites among the non-beefers includes the Salmon Fillet, the Stuffed Chicken Breast and the Ahi-Tuna Stack. Of course, all are comparable to very good restaurants in the city but there is something unusual about going to a self-proclaimed steakhouse and not ordering a steak or beef in general.

My advice is that if you are not going to order a steak, steer clear of the restaurant itself. One can do better at other places. But among the three top steakhouses in the area-Prime Rib and Morton's of Chicago being the other two-Ruth's Chris is likely the best. But of course, having the best comes at a hefty price. Don't forget your credit card.