Ikaros: now you can go Greek without pledging

IKAROS

4805 Eastern Ave.

Phone: 410-633-3750

Price: $11-$15

Location: Little Greece

Hours: Mon.,Wed.,Thur.: 11 a.m.-10 p.m.

Fri., Sat.: 11 a.m.-11 p.m.

Sun.: 11 p.m.-10 p.m.

Closed Tuesday

For those brave enough to venture past the tried and true Inner Harbor, a real treat lies ahead. Just a short cab ride past the Harbor will land you in the oft-overlooked area of Baltimore known as Greek Town. Like Little Italy, this ethnic enclave is host to a variety of restaurants that offer an array of tastes and choices. Among the best-loved in the area, Ikaros' flavors will take your taste buds on a journey to the sky, without those pesky wax wings.

Presenting wholesome, tasty food, this restaurant is named for the tragic hero of Greek Mythology, Ikaros. The son of Daedalus, Ikaros did not heed his father's warning not to fly too close to the sun. Enthralled by flight, his wax wings melted and he fell to his death in the sea.

It is this ominous backdrop that provides the atmosphere for the breathtaking array of versatility that a diner can expect. The mood, however, is quickly lightened by the friendly staff. Eager to help and prompt with requests, the waiters provide an energetic and enthusiastic component to the meal, especially when it comes to choosing from their large menu.

Although the variety of stock choices and specialties can be overwhelming, any of the waiters or routine diners are happy to recommend their favorite dishes. An especially common recommendation is to try an appetizer; the crab soup is particularly tasty. But leave room for the main course, which is truly Ikaros' draw.

Both the chicken and the lamb provide outstanding satisfaction. Large portions of wholesome and tasty food are promptly served, even on weekend nights. Of course, most any meal will get you full. An array of traditional meat dishes as well as vegetarian entrees makes this a nice, neutral dining experience. Ikaros' is also an excellent place to find fish, as the traditional Greek diet might suggest. There are a variety of choices, all providing equal quality of taste. And, with large portions, be prepared to take some food home with you.

Worthy of specific praise are the chicken kebabs and the leg of baby lamb. Both come with a side of potatoes, peas and carrots, and afford a large and satisfying meal. The taste is homey, but satisfying.

If you have any room left for dessert, be sure to order a Greek favorite, baklava. This delicate sweet pastry is the perfect way to top off a meal. Also try some of their delicious coffee, which is a perfect bitter complement to the sweet tastes of Greek desserts.

Among the only drawbacks are the prices, which are somewhat steep for the college budget, particularly when adding in the $10 cab ride to and from Eastern Avenue. Otherwise, only the sordid surrounding neighborhood would deter a would-be patron from enjoying the cozy interior of Ikaros. Unlike Little Italy, and further away from the comfort of rejuvenated Harbor Town, Greek Town remains somewhat sketchy late at night.

If you can finish the entire meal, it is hard to imagine getting up to find a cab, let alone trying to fly away. But with the fresh taste of Greece in your mouth, you won't mind the trip back to Homewood.