Head over to Pete's Grill for some comfort food

Pete's Grill

3130 Greenmount Ave.

Phone: 410-467-7698

Price: $3-$9

Location: Waverly

Hours: Mon.-Sat.: 6:00 a.m.-2:00p.m.

Sun.: 7:00 a.m.-1:00 p.m.

It's not a diner until three things are true. First, you've got to be able to get pancakes any time during the day. Second, the grillman has to have a one syllable name: Skip, Chuck, Ed, Sal, Mel, or in this case, Lou. Third, a waitress over the age of 35 must endearingly refer to you as "hon."

And so Pete's Grille offers the complete diner experience. The building sits modestly on the corner of 32nd and Greenmount, letting the crowd speak instead. There are often long lines snaking out the building full of people hoping to get a plate of steaming scrapple or home-style hominy. You probably won't be standing longer than 10-20 minutes for a seat at the counter, but the food is definitely worth a longer wait.

When doors open at 6 a.m., everyday, the place is already roaring. The crowd is usually an interesting mix of hungover Hopkins students and elderly Waverly natives. But it's not the communal charm of the place that keeps it packed, it's the honest proposition of good, cheap food.

When you order pancakes, they get served to you still steaming. They're fluffy and light, and work beautifully in concert with creamy butter and warm (which is key!) syrup. The bacon is never burnt, but isn't gummy either, and showcases a savory, umami flavor that's taking some of America's best restaurants by storm.

And that's just breakfast. I'm not mentioning the laudable efforts Pete's delivers for lunch. How about lumberjack sized portions of daily specials like roast turkey, baked right in the diner, or fish and chips. Comfort food like hamburgers and grilled sandwiches can satisfy the most primitive of cravings. You have the comfort of knowing that each dish has been cooked thousands of times, now perfected for your enjoyment.

All this is offered at prices that won't break your bank. Forget the 19 meal plan; eating at Pete's is the cheapest way to get breakfast seven days a week. Make that great breakfast.

The service is also top-drawer. Motherly waitresses will greet you with a smile and fill your cup of coffee enough times to satisfy Mr. Pink.

Lets face it, Pete's is the kind of place that makes you feel ashamed, not only of the food you've normally been eating and the prices you're paying for it, but of the fact you haven't been there hundreds of times before.

If you decide to go during Saturday mornings, be sure to check out the Waverly farmers market located right outside. You can compliment your real eggs and pitch-perfect cornbread with some hot cider.

Make sure to obey the rules, though. You can only sit down at the counter if the waitresses call you from the front of the line. Two amateurs tried to poach some prime counter real estate, but were quickly accosted by ravenous, power-tripping lesbians. Not exactly the experience you're going for.

So make a trip to Pete's next Sunday. Why not replace the unsightly aftertaste of church with some thick buttermilk silver dollars and a hearty western omelet.