Cafe Hon: it's why they call it 'Charm City'

Phone: 410-243-1230

Hours: Mon.-Thur.: 7 a.m.-9 p.m.

Fri.: 7 a.m.-10 p.m.

Sat.: 9 a.m.-10 p.m.

Sun.: 9 a.m.-8 p.m.

Web site: http://www.cafehon.com

"Go'n have a seat wherever you like, hon."

Thus I was greeted by one of the friendly but busy "Hon Girls" at the famous Cafe Hon, located on 36th Street in historic Hampden.

An old-fashioned counter, complete with 1950s-style bar stools, features a desert case displaying apple pies, coconut cake and other such goodies. Red gingham table cloths cover all the tables and each of the vintage-looking wooden chairs is slightly mismatched. A life-sized cardboard cutout of a young Elvis Presley greets customers at the door.

The atmosphere is charmingly down-home, to say the least. But this is no ordinary 1950s cafZ replica.

Big hair, stretch pants, faux fur and cat's eye glasses ... remember John Waters' Hairspray? Those ladies were based on the Baltimore "Hons." No, the waitresses don't tease their hair on a daily basis, but you'll still catch a hint of "Bawlmerese," the Baltimore dialect, in their voices. If you want to see real Hons, you'll have to return to Baltimore in June to watch the cafe's annual "Best Hon" contest, which draws young and old contestants alike to strut their stuff, in high-heeled sandals and bright-red lips, smacking chewing gum.

The waitresses are incredibly sweet and friendly, but with that little edge that characterizes a Hon Girl. The food is no-nonsense, down-home American cooking; Cafe Hon's signature dish is the "Much Better than Mom's Meatloaf," served with hearty mashed potatoes, pan gravy and the vegetable of the day. The price is $11.95, but the helping is more than sizable; this meal is not for nibblers.

Of course, there is lighter fare offered, including spaghetti, various salads and soup. I ordered somewhere in-between with a grilled cheese and tomato sandwich and fries. These are no fast-food fries; they are deep-fried, golden brown wedges -- a health nut's worst nightmare.

Despite the abundance of old-fashioned, calorific dishes on the menu, there are a surprisingly large number of vegetarian options, including hummus, vegetarian black bean burgers and the "Bean L.T.," with hummus substituting for the traditional bacon.

The food is rich and the prices modest, averaging about $5 for breakfast/brunch, $6 for lunch, and $8 to $12 for dinner entrees. Cafe Hon also has a bar, open at 5 p.m. daily, and a highly popular brunch on Saturday and Sunday, from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m.

CafZ Hon was rated one of the top 10 "Best Comfort Food" restaurants in the nation by Citysearch.com, and has been featured in a variety of newspapers and magazines throughout the country.

So if you haven't been to Hampden yet, take a short cab ride (or even walk) to Cafe Hon, the epitome of Hampden charm. Your next chance could be the Mayor's Christmas Parade, held on 36th Street the first Sunday of December, during which tons of visitors stop by to see elaborate Christmas light displays and parade floats. Cafe Hon's owner, Denise Whiting, advises cafZ customers to come early, since the tiny restaurant is packed after 6 or 7 p.m.

You can eat crabs at the Inner Harbor or see the Orioles at Camden Yards, but you simply cannot experience the real Bawlmer without visiting Cafe Hon.