Impeccable food and atmosphere are abundant at Petit Louis Bistro

Words cannot begin to describe the dining experience at Petit Louis Bistro. Located on the tree-lined vista of Roland Avenue, Petit Louis serves traditional French bistro fare. Though most people consider French food to be pretentious and hard to decipher, bistro fare is very different from classical French cuisine in that it is simple and well-presented.

Upon entering the restaurant, you are greeted by warm colors and interior decor that is reminiscent of 1920s Paris. From electrically powered "gas" lamps to the fireplace and its decorated mantelpiece, the dining room and bar offer a comfortable setting for long dinners followed by brandy and cigars. Just imagine F. Scott Fitzgerald and Ernest Hemingway hanging out at Deux Magots and you've got the idea.

When dining there, my companion and I started with the "Escargots," which is snails cooked in a garlic-infused olive oil with chopped herbs. The trouble with escargot is that it tends to be overcooked and thus have a cork-like texture; at this dining haven the snails were cooked to a plump perfection that preserved the ideal texture without compromising taste. The dipping sauce was fragrant but the garlic did not overwhelm the dish.

We then proceeded on to our next course of "Onion Soup Gratine" and "Warm Frisse Salad." The soup is an onion soup with crusty bread in the broth, topped with cheese, then placed under a broiler until the cheese is bubbly. It was presented in an elevated urn-shaped bowl and far exceeded our expectations in that it was a delicate blend of onion broth, bread and cheese. The salad was also incredible. It was a bed of wilted mesculyn greens, topped with a creamy blue cheese, mandarin oranges, warm bacon and a hot poached egg. These unlikely bedfellows, drizzled with a mild sherry vinaigrette, created a harmony of tastes akin to the colorful music of Ravel.

Our main courses consisted of an order of "Steak Frites" and "Duck Leg Confit." The "Steak Frites" was a steak served with a garlic herb butter with a side of fries. The meat was cooked as ordered and the butter sauce emphasized the perfect texture of the meat. The fries were smaller than fast food versions and were lightly seasoned with salt; the fries there were out of this world and in a class of their own. The "Duck Leg Confit" was a gastronomical delight. The skin was golden and crispy, while the duck meat was tender and juicy. There was a gravy reduction that when served with the duck made it taste almost silky. Alongside the entree was potatoes au gratin. Together, the two complemented each other and created an ideal dish.

At the end of our meal, we were served the "Assiette de Fromages," simply known as a cheese plate. On the plate there were a couple of freshly buttered and toasted pieces of thin bread and gala apple slices. To top these, the restautant offered four different cheeses. The first was a semi-strong goat cheese that was pungent but flavorful when combined with the toast. Then there was a tangy and creamy blue cheese and a triple cream cheese, both paired well with gala apples. The fourth and last cheese offering was a semi-hard cheese that was weak in flavor but interesting in texture.

All in all, the dining experience at Petit Louis Bistro is unrivaled. The atmosphere and the food meld to create a perfect reproduction of 1920s Paris, while allowing its customers to afford the superb fare in a casual setting. Be sure to make reservations by calling 410-366-9393 if you don't want to wait for too long. Also, keep in mind that the restaurant is closed on Mondays. And as Julia Childs would say, "Bon Apetit!