Hampden’s Dogwood surprises with cocktails and cuisine

Last semester I reviewed restaurants that many of us students have heard of, but have never tried. Woodberry Kitchen, Petit Louis and even the Charleston are all familiar names here on campus.

Don’t get me wrong, these Baltimore hot-spots are mostly enjoyable, yet this semester I am striving to go under the radar. I want to bring you new knowledge of great grub in Baltimore that is both geographically convenient and financially prudent.

My first stop on this mission was Dogwood. I visited the Hampden location, but there is also one downtown. The menu is not terribly complex. It is bolstered by its originality with organic, seasonal ingredients. The restaurant is a casual American-inspired hang out.

The seating area is completely open — just one room filled with tables. The bar is tucked into the left side of the restaurant. The restaurant’s down-at-home feel is characterized as such because of the architectural make-up. All customers dine together, making the experience more intimate.

Modern neon drawings line the walls adding to the overall eclectic nature of the place. Christmas lights are still hung overhead at the bar. There are no airs being put on here. The casual nature of the place only enhances the true Baltimore experience. In Zagat’s words, Dogwood is “heaven for locavores.”

Warm, thin slices of pumpernickel-esque bread greeted us at the table alongside mango-infused butter.

The mango-infused spread is a testament to the intricate care the chefs pay to every item on the menu. The cocktail and wine list is diverse and intriguing.

Dogwood clearly takes its wine selections seriously. It offers discounts on days such as “Merry Mondays.” Diners receive 20% off all Italian wines. Similarly, on Fridays, diners can enjoy 20% off wines made by Woman Winemakers. These discounts are just the beginning.

My fellow diners sought to take the cocktail list by storm. Ordering the “Signature Cocktail, The Dogwood,” we attempted to appreciate the restaurant’s specialties. The Dogwood ($12) is undoubtedly a splurge. Consider this before ordering multiple cocktails and sending your bill up into space.

Although expensive, it was worth it taste-wise. The signature drink is made of citrus-infused Prairie Vodka, Cointreau, Campari, simple syrup, pomegranate juice, freshly-squeezed lemon juice and Prosecco. The drink is pleasantly presented with its pink hue and a slice of cucumber on the side of the glass.

At first sweet, the drink has a grapefruit-tinged kick at the end of each sip. The delicate culmination of ingredients lends itself to the creative precision with which each menu item is created.

The Dinner Menu is broken down into multiple categories. The “Amuse the Palate” section is snack-esque and inexpensive.

The options are essentially small appetizers. One can choose from everything from “Dogwood Potato Chips & Dip” ($4.50) to “Slow-Roasted Whole Head of Jumbo Garlic” ($4.75).

With the wonderfully bitter cold of early February outside, I opted for the “Gruyere Gougeres” ($4). Fear not, the menu’s complex description of “Golden choux pastry puffs house-baked with sharp Gruyere cheese” makes the dish sound fancier than it is.

These particular Gougeres were half-scone-sized, piping hot, dough-filled pastries with melted Gruyere inside. To describe them as sublime would be an understatement.

The soft texture and warmth of the dish is only matched by the exquisite flavor. There are enough Gourgeres in one order for a table of six, so exert some self-control and save some room for what’s coming next.

A fellow diner ordered the “Tuscarora Beets and Frisee” Salad ($10).

The Salad is made up of “baby frisee, trio of shaved, marinated beets, lemon and honey, and Cherry Glen chevre.” Her plate was cleaned within minutes of the dish arriving. Fresh goat cheese sat atop the salad and was shared by all. The creaminess and tart flavor were nothing short of perfect.

For dinner I enjoyed the “Maine Lobster Stuffed Ravioli” ($24.50). It is made “with leeks & ricotta, shiitake mushroom-fennel sauté, SC shrimp & Madeira cream.”

The lobster filling made the dish one of the best ravioli plates I have ever had. The juxtaposition of lightly grilled shrimp against the soft pasta adds a nice textural paradox to the dish. The dish’s creaminess is rich.

If you are looking for lighter fare I would suggest going with an option under “Casual Fare,” such as an entrée-sized salad ($20) or “Lamb Borek” ($16).

I was not positive I had any room for dessert, but I was dining with seasoned Foodie champions. A fellow diner described the Pumpkin Crème Brulee ($6) as “Thanksgiving” — a perfect selection for a cold winter day.

I opted for the “Chocolate Pot de Crème” ($7). The dish is essentially hardened chocolate mousse with home-made whipped cream on top. It is at once hearty and refreshing. The whipped cream is light and a great balance to the dark chocolate.

Enjoy Dogwood for a low-key dinner near campus. In the spring, save the $6 cab fare and walk to dinner with some friends.

This Baltimore locals spot will not disappoint. Be mindful of the cocktails you order and the bill will not spike. Dogwood Hampden is located at 911 W. 36th Street at Roland Avenue. Call (410) 889-0952 for reservations.