Acropolis: Zeus would be proud

ACROPOLIS

4718 Eastern Ave.

Phone: 410-675-7882

Price: $10-$20

Location: Little Greece

Hours: Sun.-Thur.: 11 a.m.-10 p.m.

Fri.-Sat.: 11 a.m.-11 p.m.

Acropolis, a combination of a Greek restaurant and a nightclub, offers the unique opportunity to enjoy a spicy spinakopita to drink sake and retsina, under the same roof.

The cuisine consists of the delicious, authentic Greek buzzwords saganaki (cheese fried in olive oil), skordalia (a mash of potato and garlic) and grilled squid (stuffed here with feta cheese), as well as a dozen types of fish and other seafood, most of which are simply grilled over a fire.

Acropolis expresses itself to the world with large antique letters in dark blue above the entrance. Step inside and the theater continues, with a plaster Hercules projecting water into a fountain, and the partition separating the dining room by a bronze railing with a Roman accent. Columns stand erect the dining area, and hints of a sultry night take shape as the adjacent dance floor beckons the audience with the catchy Syrtaki beat in the background around midnight. The menu contains the typical Hellenic variety.

Appetizers range from dips served in generous portions on big white plates with herb pita bread to hummus, topped with capers and green olives. The most popular dish is the tzatziki, spiced yogurt with shredded cucumber, served with pita bread. A sushi bar lays hidden in the corner of the restaurant, with an excellent choice of fresh fish with a Greek touch. The most popular type includes the squid and sliced cucumbers, topped with sweet rice wine vinegar.

Fish is a common choice for the main course. Fresh yellowfin tuna in a sesame seed crust, fried, whole barbouni topped with lemon juice and capers and the rockfish come accompanied with a hot serving of pita bread and vegetables. The dinner menu also includes savory hamburgers and lamb chops, topped with garlic, oregano and olive oil. A choice of side dishes includes mixed vegetables, orzo draped in tomato sauce and crisp-soft roasted potatoes and steamed spinach. The dessert is brilliantly equipped with authentic dishes such as baklava, carrot cake, strawberry shortcake and a three-layered cheesecake.

The prices are reasonable but slightly high. The appetizers range from $5 to $11, while the entrees range from $10 to $20. Acropolis accepts cash, American Express, Visa and Mastercard. The restaurant is open from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 a.m. Slacks are required for men, and no one will be admitted wearing tennis shoes.