Pizza snobs find satisfaction in Baltimore - Never on Sunday has quality pizza, but don't even try after church.

There are three types of pizza.

The first is the junk you wolf down at 1 a.m. when you've got the study-or-drinking-induced munchies and don't really care what you're eating, as long as it's greasy and filling. You can get it delivered to your door by Papa Johns, King's Pizza or Domino's at just about any hour of the day or night.

The second is "gourmet pizza," the sort of stuff that California Pizza Kitchen, Wolfgang Puck and his ilk traffic in. This sort of pizza is ashamed of its humble urban pizza parlor roots and consequently covers itself with fancy toppings such as Peking duck or artichokes.

The third type of pizza, quality pizzeria pizza, is generally harder to find, since it costs the same and comes from the same types of places that non-chain junk pizza comes from. The difference is in quality. The cheese is pale yellow in color and stringy and refuses to separate from the rest of the slice when you take a bite, as opposed to the deeper yellow and rubbery texture of Papa John's. The crust is crispy on the bottom, but tender and puffy (not flaky) on the perimeter. Quality pizzeria pizza has less tomato sauce than junk food pizza, simply because better pizza is made fresh and thus doesn't need the moisture. The tomato sauce on good pizza is sweet, not acidic. The flavors are bold, simple and well executed -a proletarian culinary masterpiece.

The only problem is that I've only found one such pizzeria in Baltimore, one which doesn't deliver north of 25th St. It's called Never on Sunday and serves Greek, Italian and American food as well as pizza in the heart of Mount Vernon until 3 a.m.

Located on a corner that is inhabited by the seediest characters Baltimore has to offer stumbling around at any hour of the day or night, Never on Sunday usually has some spaced-out character waiting for a bite or just looking for a place to warm up. Don't worry - the best pizza usually comes from the filthiest joints. If you want to eat in, there are tables in the back, but getting a slice on the run is perfect for those times when you need a bite between cocktails at the 13th Floor or between sets at Paloma's.

There is pizza and there is pizza. Drop by Never on Sunday and find out what you're missing.