Mad Men inspires sophistication, twists to classic fashion

By: Siavash Raigani

Posted: 10/2/08

Unless you were in Europe, Africa or Asia over the summer, you've probably heard that the new television series Mad Men is taking critics by storm. The acclaimed drama about the lives of advertising executives in the 1960s has drawn more than just a viewing audience. It has caught the eye of the fashion world for its conservative, well-structured costuming. Moreover, Mad Men's wardrobe has crossed over into reality and much of this fall's men's fashion is tailored after it.

The flashy suits that models once paraded down the runways are history; Instead, tailored, well-cut suits in dark palettes replace them, with black dominating the scene. Subtle but distinguishing characteristics are being revived. A simple white pocket square in the breast pocket of any black, grey or brown suit can add sophistication and class that one would expect from the likes of a fashion magazine editor or designer. Add a simple gold or silver collar pin to accentuate the neck and tie and pair it with a tie bar of the same color. It's a touch of old school in a modern world. Trust me.

I recently went to a favorite store of mine in search of a fall jacket and was amazed to see American-style coats and jackets on display, considering the store was about as European as it gets. What did I see over and over again? The bomber jacket: restyled and refreshed. That's right, that batty old jacket your uncle used to wear (or still does) has been trimmed down and redesigned with a bit of flair.

The elastic lining of the sleeve-ends and jacket-bottom are the same, but the zipper and short elastic collar are new. Some zippers have been replaced with buttons, either single- or double-breasted. Some have both an inner zipper lining and an outer button top. Others have moved the zipper off-center and at an angle. The elastic collar is gone, replaced by a classic trench coat collar or an extending collar that reaches up the neck, as a polo shirt with a popped collar would (side note: Please don't pop your polo shirt collars).

Whatever the style or combination, the message is clear: There is a sharp American vintage influence behind this fall's fashion. Needless to say, I didn't need much persuasion and I walked out of the store with a new bomber-esque jacket.

This American influence doesn't stop at the new bombers; It sets a completely new trend as well. This season, blue collar fashion is on the rise. Believe it or not, runways have teamed up with clothing that now portrays coal miners and carpenters in a whole new light.

The focus is on plaid. Whether it's a simple blue-green plaid button-down shirt or an Irish-inspired overcoat, the choices are endless.

If plaid is not your thing, pick up a leather or wool jacket with a nice big wooly-mammoth collar. Add worn-in jeans and some spectacularly beat-up boots and you'll have the style under your belt. You want to look like you work with your hands without actually having to do so.

And on an interesting side note, not that anyone would wear it, but the jumpsuit has appeared on more than one runway as well. Maybe it's just the return of old formula Schlitz beer from the '60s but good old American clothing sure looks good right now.

Ladies have a lot of choices this fall. First off, it's chic to be curvy. Now that the heroine chic of the '90s has died down (knock on wood), it's hip to have hips again. Skirts, jackets and dresses all highlight your body, so make your choices count. In particular, the pencil skirt is making a retro comeback and has been a must-have on the streets of New York this summer.

Women will also find a collection of checks and plaids on this fall's racks that have carried over from last year. Scarves, shirts, coats and dresses can all have this pattern, but keep it simple. Men's plaids are extravagant and multicolored, but keep your plaids simple and two-toned.

If you're going to hit the town (a.k.a. the Den) for the night, consider a minimalist look. A simple dress, perhaps with leggings, no more, no less. The likes of Calvin Klein, Jil Sander, Prada, Lanvin and YSL all chose a simple minimalist look this fall. What color? Black is still the new black.

Finally, just because flowers bloom in spring, it doesn't mean they disappear in fall. Runways have been full of floral patterns and foliage in subdued, earthy colors.

And so, whatever trend you pick, or whatever trend picks you, stay eternal, stay unique and keep it simple this fall.